Most street cars are not set up for neutral handling. A front drive car will typically have significant understeer. While this is not conducive to fast cornering, if someone is driving too fast around a corner, the front wheels will slide and not turn the car as much as expected. The natural reaction of the driver to this is to lift off the gas which is the right thing to do to regain some traction.
Back to the theory that all four tires should contribute equally to the cornering grip. There are also two other dynamics that work the tires and generate heat: accelerating and braking.In a front drive car, the front tires have the workload of doing both braking and accelerating. Furthermore, a factory stock front drive car probably has a tendency towards understeering in the corners, and that adds even more heat to the front tires from the excessive cornering friction. This combination conspires to heat up the front tires a great deal more than the rear tires.
During a driving session on the track, the front tires may increase as much as 9 to 10 psig from the cold setting. The rear tires on that same car may only come up 4 to 5 psig. This clearly points out that the car is far from having the front and rear tires contribute equally to handling grip. This is not optimum at all, and requires cold pressure settings at a seemingly odd starting point.
If we look at the example situation above, we may find from testing that when the tires are hot, a reasonably neutral handling balance occurs when the front tires are at 34 psig and the rear tires are at 35 psig. If we know that the front tires are going to increase in pressure by 9 psig from a cold setting, then the appropriate cold setting is 34 minus 9, or 25 psig. The rear tire cold setting would be 35 minus 4, or 31 psig. This may sound completely counter intuitive considering that on the street, and when you first go out on the track for the first few laps, these settings will feel absolutely horrible (this setting will likely result in a lot of oversteer and will feel very loose). However, on the track, on about the third lap, the handling will settle down and should reach a neutral balance.
Remember that what matters is how the car handles in long runs, and it is the hot pressures that are to be focused on. If this means starting out with some seemingly strange cold settings, so be it.
As an aside, the best thing to cure significant understeer, and the first money that should be spent on any factory car with excessive understeer is a rear anti-roll bar. As a first modification, this will probably result in more lap time improvement per dollar spent than anything you can have done to the car.