yes, i've read this all too. i know there is NO company that has created a chip for it that's y i'm making sure with you guys becuase i've been out of the game for a lil while. also, the reason why we can't change our lift like the vtec is because vtech is determined by the rpm speed, however ours is determined by rpm and engine temperture and one other thing i can't remeber rite now.
The third factor you're forgetting is oil pressure.
VTEC works of an electronic solenoid, our system works off of oil pressure in a hydraulic mechanism on the Intake
camshaft sprocket (all Variable valve timing engines made by toyota work on a similar system. An electronic oil control valve flows oil to the hydraulic cylinder, and switches the camshaft over to the hot side. Lift uses a seperate mechanism, also on oil pressure, that forces four small pins under the rocker arms so the followers can reach the lift points on the hot cam, thus allowing the valves to be pushed out more, this is how lift works.
I've been trying to create a stand alone lift controller, but it's proving to be trickier than I thought. Theoretically, an independant controller for the oil control valve would do it, but the actual operation on cue is trickier in practice than in theory. I'm still working on this.
The ECU can be reprogrammed, but only by toyota, since the ECU's ROM is encrypted. that's why, for now, the only solution is a stand-alone replacement, like the brash boy ECU or the Power FC.
Piggyback systems may work for some applications, but the solution is only short term, and the factory ECU will dial it out after a minute or so. Not a problem if you are using it for drag racing, where you run the car for less than a minute at a time, but in endurance races or events longer than a minute, it's no help at all. Perhaps ther's a solution to the whole "Recalibration" issue, but I haven't found it yet. Piggyback units alter the sensor signal maps, not the ECU's hard-coded flashrom programming, the issue relates to the factory ECU tuning out the altered signal maps and compensating for the changes in voltage; it looks at the IAT/ECT/Knock and other sensor signals, notices the voltage has changed slightly, and says to itself, "Oh, the voltage is a bit off, The sensor must be failing" it then compensates for the change, best case scenario, the car runs like stock, worst case scenario, you get a check engine light and your car runs like crap. this is also why the resistor trick won't work on our cars.
Brash boy makes performance ECU's for both the GT and GTS btw. They aren't cheap though.