Stafford Fabrications Aluminum Fuel Rail Installation Guide
This guide will cover the installation of the Stafford Fabrications Fuel Rail onto the stock fuel system of a 2001 Celica GT. It should be noted that while the install will be similar if not identical on a GTS, it will differ if you have any other alterations to the stock fuel system (nitrous, turbo, etc).Required Materials:
SF Fuel Rail
Elbow fitting with 5/16" male hose fitting.
about 2' of 5/16" rubber fuel line.
(2) High-pressure hose clamps.
(4) Injector O-Rings (fuel rail side, not engine side)
Teflon tapeRequired Tools:
10mm, 12mm socket wrenches
12mm open-ended wrench
Empty coffee can
Flathead screwdriverInstall Time:
about 2 hours.Before getting to the actual install, be sure to wrap the threads on any fittings that you put on the aftermarket fuel rail with Teflon, this will insure a leak-proof seal.
Start by removing anything that might get in your way. In my case, I removed my Rod Millen Motorsports strut bar, the two vacuum lines that go from the Intake
to the valve cover and the battery. (if you don't have a strut bar, you'll be fine with just removing the battery and vacuum lines)
Now, follow the fuel line from the stock fuel rail to where it meets the hardline near the firewall:
Remove the black plastic piece that reinforces the fuel line coupler:(here you see the black plastic piece below and the bare fuel coupler above it)
Now, if you look on the sides of the fuel coupler you will see two white tabs:(sorry for the blurry pic)
All you have to do is press on these white tabs and the rubber fuel line will come off the hardline fairly easily. (at this point, be sure you have a rag and your empty coffee can nearby, as there will be some fuel coming out of the line once you disconnect it)
Now it's time to remove the stock fuel rail. Start by making note of the plugs on the injectors, as you dont want to re-connect them in the wrong order. All I did was mark the 'first' one with some tape. Then, since they go: "black white black white," I knew how to re-connect them after. If you want to be very sure, you could use a piece of tape on each and number them.
Once that is done, remove the 10mm bolt on the side of the engine that secures the hardline off the stock fuel rail:
Now, remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the fuel rail in place, save these as you will be using them with the Stafford Fabrications rail. With those and the 10mm side bolt removed, you can now take off the fuel rail. It's a good idea to use something to blow away any junk (sand, etc) that has accumulated around the base of the injectors before you remove the fuel rail. This way, when the rail is removed, this junk wont fall down inside your engine.
Remove the fuel rail. The injectors will most likely come with it, as they are more securely attached to the the rail than they are to the engine. Remove each injector from the stock fuel rail (expect some fuel to leak out when you do this), and remove the rubber O-rings at the end of each. Place each injector back into its spot on the engine and install the new rubber O-ring on each one.
With the injectors and new O-rings in place, you can now install the Stafford Fabrications Fuel Rail. Place it gently on the injectors, making sure that each injector is securely in its spot before tightening down the two 12mm bolts.
Now all that's left to do now is to run the new fuel line from the inlet on the Stafford Fabrications rail to the stock hardline near the firewall. Be sure both fittings are very secure.
With that done, reconnect the battery and start the car. Starting will be a little rough, as you have to wait for fuel to be pumped through the new lines and rail. Once the car is started, quickly get out and check all fittings and connections for leaks. If you find a leak, stop the engine immediately and fix it.
If you've been careful, you should be fine, but check your fittings from time to time just to be sure!