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nos #386301 Jan 28, 12:23pm Jan 28, 12:23pm
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nos
ok, just wondering, how is nitrous actually used. im guessing the whole buttons on steering wheel thing is fake from tftf, becuase a lot of stuff was fake.

but from other car sites, ive heard that you can have a button for it, and theres also kits that inject it into your engine when you get up to higher speeds.


so, is it both, or what?

Re: nos [Re: SnowFire] #386302 Jan 28, 12:39pm Jan 28, 12:39pm
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Well, on some system for safety sake, they have a wide open throttle (WOT) sensor that once you flip the switch in your dash, it "arms" the system, then once you reach wide open throttle it will begin injecting nitrous. They can also be set to a certain RPM too. I think the ZEX kit has all that stuff built into 1 unit that controls all that so there's less headache installing, and less of a risk to your car. Hope that helps.

Re: nos [Re: Psquared] #386303 Jan 28, 12:46pm Jan 28, 12:46pm
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yea you can do it either way. i would suggest using a mallory window switch. this can be set so that the nitrous doesnt come on until a certain rpm and then sprays as long as it is armed automatically up until the rpm where you want it to cut off. but the buttons on the steering wheel arent fake, they prob are in the movie but people who race for a living will put buttons on the steering wheel because it is easier to reach the button, rather than having it hidden so you can get around inspections.


Laissez les bons temps rouler
Re: nos [Re: celimangts17] #386304 Jan 28, 1:27pm Jan 28, 1:27pm
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Think with steering wheel buttons you'd still have an arming switch located somewhere else so you don't accidently hit the buttons when your not in race mode. but the buttons are just the most basic form of nitrous activation hit the button and the solenoid opens release and it turns off. actually if your a hardcore drag racer it's all automatic and you have multiple stages so the first shot of nitrous goes off after you drop the clutch the second after a second or two and sometimes a third after a few more seconds so a stock big block with 1200hp ends up with 3000hp at the end of the run. but deffinately go with the automatic at rpms or WOT cause if you push that button when your not at full throttle your probably going to break your engine that's where most of these people get that you should never install nitrous on your car cause it'll break it, but the truth is it'll be less wear on your car than a supercharger or turbo if you install it and use it correctly.(it's really only good for drag racing though cause it's only going to last you a few seconds)

Re: nos [Re: celicatuner] #386305 Jan 28, 3:26pm Jan 28, 3:26pm
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thanks guys :whatever:

Re: nos [Re: SnowFire] #386306 Jan 28, 3:58pm Jan 28, 3:58pm
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great info. pepbyos has a spiffy sterring wheel with the buttons.

Re: nos [Re: hombredelassrtas] #386307 Feb 6, 11:27am Feb 6, 11:27am
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I have a question about NOS. I dont know shit about cars and i know i dont want to spend a couple grand on a turbo so how would i go about getting a Nos kit. As in what all would i need for a Stock GT '00 if i got nos. Im assuming Dry isnt an option so i have to get a wet system. Could anyone else inform me on how nos works. Thanks in advance!

Re: nos [Re: dougied] #386308 Feb 6, 11:33am Feb 6, 11:33am
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^^ you can use dry. you might want to upgrade your fuel injectors though.

wet is a little better and a little safer than dry if you want to do a higher shot (more horsepower over dry)...you can use that too

direct port is even better and safer than all of the rest especially if you want to use an even higher shot than wet..you can use that too

Re: nos [Re: Speed4TheNeed] #386309 Feb 6, 11:46am Feb 6, 11:46am
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^ butttt when you get into all that direct port piranha shot stuff... thats when you absolutly need to have better internals... i mean you really need to rebuild ur engine before you go with direct port... go with a wet zex kit... easiest and safest thumbsup

Re: nos [Re: Speed4TheNeed] #386310 Feb 6, 11:47am Feb 6, 11:47am
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That kinda looked like chinese to me lol. Could you speak in retard terms for me lo. What are fuel injectors and how much do they cost. Im not looking to fucking crank my shit uo hardcore. I just want a nice kick in the ass if some lil kid wants to race from one light to the next lol. Any information would be helpful thanks again

Re: nos [Re: dougied] #386311 Feb 6, 11:54am Feb 6, 11:54am
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i cant find any worth while posts to read up on

Re: nos [Re: Shiftyz1x] #386312 Feb 6, 5:54pm Feb 6, 5:54pm
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Originally Posted by Shiftyz1x
^ butttt when you get into all that direct port piranha shot stuff... thats when you absolutly need to have better internals... i mean you really need to rebuild ur engine before you go with direct port... go with a wet zex kit... easiest and safest thumbsup


Actually, that's only true if you jet the kit for high horsepower; Direct-port is safer since each cylinder gets it's share of N2O and fuel, wet fogger systems aren't as safe, because yoy can get fuel puddles in the Intake manifold if you aren't careful; those puddles can detonate and mess up your Intake manifold

This guy I knew with a cavalier and a 50-shot fogger system had this happen, a puddle ignited in the Intake, and shattered the plastic manifold. it was funny as hell.

With direct port, you will not have that problem, so long as it's jetted correctly it will be safer, not more dangerous.

As for push buttons, I wouldn't rely soley on them. It would be best if you have redundant stages for nitrous triggering. Here's an example:

Have an arming switch, add a WOT (wide open throttle) microswitch to the TB linkage (Or on DBW cars, use a TPS sensor switch). Add a window switch or nitrous control module of some sort, then, lastly, add your pushbutton, all but the arming switch should be chained toghether into the trigger circuit.

Now, you flip the arming switch, if the pedal is floored, and the appropriate RPM is achieved, you press the button and the nitrous is triggered as long as you hold the button down. If you lift off the gas, rev too high, or too low, the nitrous will shut off, protecting the engine.

They also sell Fuel Pressure safety switches, if the adequate amount of fuel pressure is not present, the system will not engage. they're about $35 from Summit.

A nitrous system is only as smart as you design it to be.


[Linked Image]
Re: nos [Re: Rave669] #386313 Feb 6, 6:45pm Feb 6, 6:45pm
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Re: nos [Re: Rave669] #386314 Feb 6, 10:42pm Feb 6, 10:42pm
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Originally Posted by Rave669
Originally Posted by Shiftyz1x
^ butttt when you get into all that direct port piranha shot stuff... thats when you absolutly need to have better internals... i mean you really need to rebuild ur engine before you go with direct port... go with a wet zex kit... easiest and safest thumbsup


Actually, that's only true if you jet the kit for high horsepower; Direct-port is safer since each cylinder gets it's share of N2O and fuel, wet fogger systems aren't as safe, because yoy can get fuel puddles in the Intake manifold if you aren't careful; those puddles can detonate and mess up your Intake manifold

This guy I knew with a cavalier and a 50-shot fogger system had this happen, a puddle ignited in the Intake, and shattered the plastic manifold. it was funny as hell.

With direct port, you will not have that problem, so long as it's jetted correctly it will be safer, not more dangerous.

As for push buttons, I wouldn't rely soley on them. It would be best if you have redundant stages for nitrous triggering. Here's an example:

Have an arming switch, add a WOT (wide open throttle) microswitch to the TB linkage (Or on DBW cars, use a TPS sensor switch). Add a window switch or nitrous control module of some sort, then, lastly, add your pushbutton, all but the arming switch should be chained toghether into the trigger circuit.

Now, you flip the arming switch, if the pedal is floored, and the appropriate RPM is achieved, you press the button and the nitrous is triggered as long as you hold the button down. If you lift off the gas, rev too high, or too low, the nitrous will shut off, protecting the engine.

They also sell Fuel Pressure safety switches, if the adequate amount of fuel pressure is not present, the system will not engage. they're about $35 from Summit.

A nitrous system is only as smart as you design it to be.





-- Thank you, finally some clearer info smile

Re: nos [Re: dougied] #386315 Feb 7, 1:04am Feb 7, 1:04am
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Originally Posted by dougied
Originally Posted by Rave669
Originally Posted by Shiftyz1x
^ butttt when you get into all that direct port piranha shot stuff... thats when you absolutly need to have better internals... i mean you really need to rebuild ur engine before you go with direct port... go with a wet zex kit... easiest and safest thumbsup


Actually, that's only true if you jet the kit for high horsepower; Direct-port is safer since each cylinder gets it's share of N2O and fuel, wet fogger systems aren't as safe, because yoy can get fuel puddles in the Intake manifold if you aren't careful; those puddles can detonate and mess up your Intake manifold

This guy I knew with a cavalier and a 50-shot fogger system had this happen, a puddle ignited in the Intake, and shattered the plastic manifold. it was funny as hell.

With direct port, you will not have that problem, so long as it's jetted correctly it will be safer, not more dangerous.

As for push buttons, I wouldn't rely soley on them. It would be best if you have redundant stages for nitrous triggering. Here's an example:

Have an arming switch, add a WOT (wide open throttle) microswitch to the TB linkage (Or on DBW cars, use a TPS sensor switch). Add a window switch or nitrous control module of some sort, then, lastly, add your pushbutton, all but the arming switch should be chained toghether into the trigger circuit.

Now, you flip the arming switch, if the pedal is floored, and the appropriate RPM is achieved, you press the button and the nitrous is triggered as long as you hold the button down. If you lift off the gas, rev too high, or too low, the nitrous will shut off, protecting the engine.

They also sell Fuel Pressure safety switches, if the adequate amount of fuel pressure is not present, the system will not engage. they're about $35 from Summit.

A nitrous system is only as smart as you design it to be.





-- Thank you, finally some clearer info smile


thanks for clearing that up. you can use direct port without upgrading engine internals...BUT if you do want a high-shot nitrous system then you will definately need direct port (or else you'll probably detonate at sometime) AND engine internals. but direct port setups can be run on any type-shot setup..it's just not worth it if you plan on doing a low-shot setup because in that case a dry or wet setup will be practically just as safe for a fraction of the cost.

Re: nos [Re: Speed4TheNeed] #386316 Feb 7, 3:34pm Feb 7, 3:34pm
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True, I just reccommend wet over dry systems, Mostly because:

1) Our fuel system doesn't utilize a fuel-return line

and

2) You can't really get an aftermarket Fuel Pressure regulator to work on the factory setup, not without some modification

at least when you run a wet system, fuel enrichment is taken care of, on a dry system, you may save a few bucks, but you're going to need to figure out fuel enrichment (And believe me, four new injectors will cost more than the extra $100 you spend on the wet kit)

BTW, I feel that an entry-level direct-port nitrous kit is well worth the added expense due to the reliability factor (no puddles, every cylinder gets equal amounts of nitrous & fuel, so no lean cylinders or burnt pistons)

The systems that replace the factory fuel rail, and inject through the factory injector ports aren't much more price-wise than a basic wet fogger system. they aren't too hard to install either.

But it's true, at lower jetting, a wet kit is just as safe as direct-port or dry systems, so long as they're installed correctly.


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Re: nos [Re: Rave669] #386317 Feb 7, 4:32pm Feb 7, 4:32pm
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Shiftyz1x
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Originally Posted by Rave669
Originally Posted by Shiftyz1x
^ butttt when you get into all that direct port piranha shot stuff... thats when you absolutly need to have better internals... i mean you really need to rebuild ur engine before you go with direct port... go with a wet zex kit... easiest and safest thumbsup


Actually, that's only true if you jet the kit for high horsepower; Direct-port is safer since each cylinder gets it's share of N2O and fuel, wet fogger systems aren't as safe, because yoy can get fuel puddles in the Intake manifold if you aren't careful; those puddles can detonate and mess up your Intake manifold

This guy I knew with a cavalier and a 50-shot fogger system had this happen, a puddle ignited in the Intake, and shattered the plastic manifold. it was funny as hell.

With direct port, you will not have that problem, so long as it's jetted correctly it will be safer, not more dangerous.

As for push buttons, I wouldn't rely soley on them. It would be best if you have redundant stages for nitrous triggering. Here's an example:

Have an arming switch, add a WOT (wide open throttle) microswitch to the TB linkage (Or on DBW cars, use a TPS sensor switch). Add a window switch or nitrous control module of some sort, then, lastly, add your pushbutton, all but the arming switch should be chained toghether into the trigger circuit.

Now, you flip the arming switch, if the pedal is floored, and the appropriate RPM is achieved, you press the button and the nitrous is triggered as long as you hold the button down. If you lift off the gas, rev too high, or too low, the nitrous will shut off, protecting the engine.

They also sell Fuel Pressure safety switches, if the adequate amount of fuel pressure is not present, the system will not engage. they're about $35 from Summit.

A nitrous system is only as smart as you design it to be.



ok buddy this is straight from holley...

Powerful Direct Port System For 4-Cylinder Engines
The NOS Pro Race Fogger(R) system represents the ultimate in state-of-the-art direct-port nitrous injection technology. Simply stated, it produces the largest horsepower gains of any single-stage nitrous system available today and is designed for all-out competition-only import four-cylinder and rotary engines. Several top-running "Pro" Imports have recorded 7-second clockings with this system.

Re: nos [Re: Shiftyz1x] #386318 Feb 7, 4:32pm Feb 7, 4:32pm
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"Due to the high power levels and cylinder pressures produced by Pro Race Fogger systems, you must use high strength forged pistons, rods and crankshaft. Use of cylinder head and main studs will help insure reliability. A high quality racing ignition system with timing control must be used with these systems. Use of racing gas is recommended "

Re: nos [Re: Shiftyz1x] #386319 Feb 7, 4:35pm Feb 7, 4:35pm
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i mean i guess you dont HAVE to have upgraded internals but i mean if you want to make it around the block... man dont get me wroung... im not saying that im right and your wroung... i myself am a beginner compared to some of these people on this site (dealing with nirtous) but i do know a little. i am open for critizem if im wroung please tell me thumbsup thumbsup thumbsup
(sorry for going off topic guys)

Re: nos [Re: Shiftyz1x] #386320 Feb 7, 4:44pm Feb 7, 4:44pm
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^^ dont you have a full nitrous set-up? or just a sweet ass purge system

Re: nos [Re: Shiftyz1x] #386321 Feb 8, 12:48am Feb 8, 12:48am
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Originally Posted by Shiftyz1x
"Due to the high power levels and cylinder pressures produced by Pro Race Fogger systems, you must use high strength forged pistons, rods and crankshaft. Use of cylinder head and main studs will help insure reliability. A high quality racing ignition system with timing control must be used with these systems. Use of racing gas is recommended "


he didn't say anything wrong.

if you choose to run a direct port system with a very high shot of nitrous..then you'll obviously have to upgrade your engine internals.

you can still use a direct port system without it having to be a high shot system. you can have a direct port system pushing 50 shots and not have to upgrade your engine internals at all.

direct port systems are mostly used for very high shots because it costs more than wet and dry systems so the only cost-economic reason to get a direct port system is if you intend to run a very high shot system off of it--but you don't have to at all.

some people use direct port without running a very high shot just because its a lot safer than either wet or dry. it's all on what you plan to do with it. obviously if you feel like pushing 100 shots of nitrous into your celica engine you're gonna need reinforcement.

Re: nos [Re: Speed4TheNeed] #386322 Feb 8, 7:42pm Feb 8, 7:42pm
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I've had experiance with an RSX-S and a 100 shot of NX. You are glued to the back of your seat. When you look out the back window you can almost see the air flowing off the spoiler. Its like heat coming off a sidewalk. Hard to describe but an amazing experiance. thumbsup

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