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#366272 Jan 5, 4:49pm
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Specialist
2002 Toyota Celica
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2002 Toyota Celica
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Looking for new rotors but don't have money for a full brake system upgrade, here's what I'm looking at... I have a silver car so I'm leaning towards the rotras:

http://www.hopupracing.com/rofrslrotoce.html

http://www.hopupracing.com/brfrcrropato.html

need to get around corrosion as I live on the ocean.

...go

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ct
C'mon & hit me!
2000 Toyota Celica GTS
C'mon & hit me!
2000 Toyota Celica GTS
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slotted thumbsup

i wouldn't get drilled unless they were casted

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Kim
GOD
2002 Toyota Celica GT
GOD
2002 Toyota Celica GT
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^ what he said.


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Furi Kuri
2002 Toyota Celica GT
Furi Kuri
2002 Toyota Celica GT
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Slotted, i dont trust drilled, unless like CT said "they were casted." thumbsup


I've mastered the art of the After Image Technique.

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daman
2000 Toyota Celica GT
daman
2000 Toyota Celica GT
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slotted

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SHO - NUFF
2003 Toyota Celica GT
SHO - NUFF
2003 Toyota Celica GT
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rotora slotted rotors www.motorgroove.com [motorgroove.com] just over $100 for the fronts

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Caleb
2000 Toyota Celica
Caleb
2000 Toyota Celica
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it just depends on what you want.

drilled cools the brakes faster which means 'brake fade' takes longer.

slotted rotors stop your car faster (which is obviously good) but also eat up your brake pads a lot faster (which isnt so good).

getting both slotted and drilled isn't recommended because it reduces the strength of the rotor and it is susceptible to warping after continuous hard braking.

personally, i think the advantages of stopping a foot or two shorter with slotted rotors outweighs the negatives of buying brake pads more often. i've been in a few very close calls where just a couple of inches kept me from getting into a fender bender. stuff happens. and if you do rear-end someone, that right there will cost more than an entire liftime of brake pads.

you can also choose to use a softer tire when trying to slow your car down faster. more tread blocks make for betting stopping in the dry. tires with grooves through the threadblocks and contain a good amount of silica are very good for wet driving.

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2002 Toyota Celica
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so go slotted...no drilling unless its an all out race car and you can afford to replace rotors and pads all the time


respect the gt-s

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Caleb
2000 Toyota Celica
Caleb
2000 Toyota Celica
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to sum up what i said in my last post:

drilled holds virtually no advantage for a person unless they are very hard on the brakes or race their car competitively (such as autox)

slotted does hold an advantage for any person because it has the ability to grip the pads better...which will stop the car at slightly shorter distance (every little bit helps) but pads will need to be replaced more frequently.

if you are fine with the way your car stops now..just get oem-style rotors. the celica IS very light as it is and that is a tremendous help when trying to get to 0 mph. if you only want slotted or drilled (or both) because of the looks..i suggest you don't do it. (unless you show your car)

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2002 Toyota Celica
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I want better stopping power firstly, and I plan to build it to a show car so I want em to look nice as well. I think slotted is the way to go thumbsup thanks for all your help. How often would you say I'd be replacing the pads? What's the best pads to get?

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ct
C'mon & hit me!
2000 Toyota Celica GTS
C'mon & hit me!
2000 Toyota Celica GTS
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Originally Posted by AZZKIKR
rotora slotted rotors www.motorgroove.com [motorgroove.com] just over $100 for the fronts

wow..not bad...127 for the front and 99 for the rears!! thumbsup

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Furi Kuri
2002 Toyota Celica GT
Furi Kuri
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that is a bitchin' price thumbsup


I've mastered the art of the After Image Technique.

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Senior Member
2004 Toyota Celica GT
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2004 Toyota Celica GT
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I had my eyes on the AEM Big rotor kit that keeps the oe caliper. Would that be a bad choice since they are both slotted and drilled? I'm doing more show than racing, but it's still a summer daily driver.


Originally posted by RICOGT:
i wanted to get the vac gauge because it constantly moves. more of a race feel i think

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SHO - NUFF
2003 Toyota Celica GT
SHO - NUFF
2003 Toyota Celica GT
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most people advise against the AEM big brake rotor kit as they don't see a performance increase at ALL

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2002 Toyota Celica
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^ that's what I hear also

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2004 Toyota Celica GT
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^^ Good to know guys, Thanks! thumbsup


Originally posted by RICOGT:
i wanted to get the vac gauge because it constantly moves. more of a race feel i think

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Aem big brake kit is useless and a waste of money even for show.
I have the same slotted rotors as AZZKIKR and upgraded pads.
I figured I needed new pads so why not upgrade. I also figured that newer more aggressive pads will ruin my stock rotors more quickly. So I upgraded to new slotted rotors also (the GB) and everything is sound.
I have seen no more wear or brake dust because of the slots on both the rotors and pads.

Slotted rotors won't eat up a pad. That's a "misnomer" so to speak. There's no proof on that.
The slots dissipate brake pad dust, heat, and gasses which most or all pads now don't give off.


My tires are stickier rated at AA for traction and A for heat and are at 280 tread wear.
Much better than stock tires so I can stop on a dime and have once since I had everything installed.

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^ what pads you got?

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I have Project Mu NS as stated in the Axxis Ultimate thread.

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Nole-hater
2000 Toyota Celica GT
Nole-hater
2000 Toyota Celica GT
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So would it be bad to use oem pads with slotted rotors?


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In case you didn't notice its good to be a Florida Gator. Noles Suck.

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Caleb
2000 Toyota Celica
Caleb
2000 Toyota Celica
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Originally Posted by Live42day
I had my eyes on the AEM Big rotor kit that keeps the oe caliper. Would that be a bad choice since they are both slotted and drilled? I'm doing more show than racing, but it's still a summer daily driver.

as some people have already said...it's basically an aesthetic mod.

you don't really stop much shorter, but you won't stop longer either. it's pretty much an aesthetic mod. one thing the kit DOES do though is decrease brake fade...and does it very well. for the first 80% of pressure applied, it is greater than stock. that means when trying to slow down (but not completely stop) you will stop faster with the same amount of pressure applied on the brakes than in the stock setup. so it FEELS like your stopping distance is shortened because you can FEEL how well the brakes are slowing you down initially. and the last 20% of stopping pressure is less than stock, so that the stopping distance is shortened enough to justify the price. hopefully you got what i mean by this..if not feel free to shoot me a PM and i'll try explaining it better thumbsup

but to give AEM credit though...you don't WANT a big-brake kit that makes you stop much shorter. the reason is that because the big-brake kit only deals with the front-rotors. meanwhile, the rear rotors are untouched. as i said earlier about the first 80% being greater than stock--what do you think the rear is doing?? NOTHING AT ALL. this is because the rear brakes are designed to only give so much pressure to avoid swerving when you brake..but since the front brakes are now stopping harder the rears are basically just sitting there--which puts more stopping requirements on the front brakes (big brakes). this added strain on the front means the front brakes stop slower than they would have...which evens the playing feild with the stock brakes.

but anyway, in anything less than a total stop--big brake kits are decent. but it doesnt take a genius to figure out that total stopping distance is the only real thing that matters in braking.

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Very well explained Caleb. Makes total sense. thumbsup


Originally posted by RICOGT:
i wanted to get the vac gauge because it constantly moves. more of a race feel i think

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^^ There is one company that makes a big brake kit for the celi front and rear but the shit costs A LOT. That's why I'd rather just get new rotors all around and maybe a prettier caliper.

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Originally Posted by FloydianSlip6
^^ There is one company that makes a big brake kit for the celi front and rear but the shit costs A LOT. That's why I'd rather just get new rotors all around and maybe a prettier caliper.

Let me know how that turns out for ya. I was going to get the AEM but after reading the above I changed my mind.


Originally posted by RICOGT:
i wanted to get the vac gauge because it constantly moves. more of a race feel i think

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2002 Toyota Celica
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i will tongue thumbsup

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Originally Posted by Speed4TheNeed
Originally Posted by Live42day
I had my eyes on the AEM Big rotor kit that keeps the oe caliper. Would that be a bad choice since they are both slotted and drilled? I'm doing more show than racing, but it's still a summer daily driver.

as some people have already said...it's basically an aesthetic mod.

you don't really stop much shorter, but you won't stop longer either. it's pretty much an aesthetic mod. one thing the kit DOES do though is decrease brake fade...and does it very well. for the first 80% of pressure applied, it is greater than stock. that means when trying to slow down (but not completely stop) you will stop faster with the same amount of pressure applied on the brakes than in the stock setup. so it FEELS like your stopping distance is shortened because you can FEEL how well the brakes are slowing you down initially. and the last 20% of stopping pressure is less than stock, so that the stopping distance is shortened enough to justify the price. hopefully you got what i mean by this..if not feel free to shoot me a PM and i'll try explaining it better thumbsup

but to give AEM credit though...you don't WANT a big-brake kit that makes you stop much shorter. the reason is that because the big-brake kit only deals with the front-rotors. meanwhile, the rear rotors are untouched. as i said earlier about the first 80% being greater than stock--what do you think the rear is doing?? NOTHING AT ALL. this is because the rear brakes are designed to only give so much pressure to avoid swerving when you brake..but since the front brakes are now stopping harder the rears are basically just sitting there--which puts more stopping requirements on the front brakes (big brakes). this added strain on the front means the front brakes stop slower than they would have...which evens the playing feild with the stock brakes.

but anyway, in anything less than a total stop--big brake kits are decent. but it doesnt take a genius to figure out that total stopping distance is the only real thing that matters in braking.

Thanks for the explanation I learn something new everyday.
All or most big brake kits for the Celica are for the front only. New 4 pistons or above calipers (if you can get custom), rotors, pads, SS brake lines, and brake fluid. Those same companies will sell you a better rear pad and rotor or even an upgrade caliper in the rear if need be (not that I ever heard of that for a Celica). They will figure in the whole front/rear and front to rear brake bias and come up with something that will work.
The AEM is a big rotor kit that doesn't do anything, but add weight, relocate the stock caliper, and give good looks.
I will almost write that stock pads and stock rotors with SS brake lines and better fluid will give the same results or better.
Just upgrading the pads and or rotors is more than enough and possibly overkill. The SS brake lines will help knockout the fade and so will the brake fluid. A great addition to any brake system.
I have heard, and I don't know if it's true, that most true big brake upgrades like TRD, Stoptech, Brembo, etc. will actually make you lose time 0-60 and the 1/4 mile or HP.

Like you said previously Speed4TheNeed, tires also make a very important part of braking.

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