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#333616 Nov 23, 2:52am
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I'm done and pretty much through with appearance mods. I might have some more to do cause I have a fucked up door but besides that, very minimal. Now I'm going to try and focus on the HP and handling.

To be quite honest, I don't know much about engines at all. Know some, not a hefty sum. Anyhow, I have some mods prepped out and am hoping for some feedback. Here's a small list and some questions to go along with it:

Performance/Engine
-Port Stock Headers (read on the OTHER Celica site that this is probably the best possible gain you could achieve compared to all the other headers.)
-Port Intake Manifold (this possible? effective?)
-CAI (not sure about this one, kinda afraid of it screwing up my engine again)
-NGK Iridium Spark Plugs (would this make a difference to the response on the car?)
-Fuel Injectors (how many CC should I go?)
-Invidia Cat-Back Exhaust
-Apexi PFC (questions all here: https://celicahobby.com/ubbthreads/thread.f0_1953346548_0_collapsed_5_365_1.html#1953346548

Suspension
-TRD 3 Point Rear Strut Bar
-APR Front Strut Bar -OR- RMM Front Strut Bar
-Front and Rear Sways (what kind?)
-Progress Lowering Springs (already got it, haven't recieved it yet)
-KYB AGX Shocks
-Engine Mounts (what is available out there? I don't even know if this goes under suspension or not tongue)
-Camber Links (might, might not, see if I need them or not first)

Weight Reduction is another thing I would have to work on, without sacrificing too much of the beautiful interior cause I still will be using this as a daily transport. Also, please, I'm not going to turbo my car cause I don't think it's necessary and neither am I going to do a swap. I like the category that the GT is placed in races, I don't want to go head on with no Ferraris so forget it. Thanks for any future input! Also, TRD S/C is also an option, but no turbo...although it sounds nice... grin

Last edited by shox; Nov 23, 2004 3:02am.

shox #333617 Nov 23, 12:04pm
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Not to be mean but you contradict yourself. You say you dont want to turbo, because it will place you in a different class, but the s/c is an option. A s/c will put you in a different class just like turbo, its still f/i.

Johnsgt #333618 Nov 23, 12:40pm
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Get the trd rear bar
RMM front bar
go with the AG-X's
get hotchkis sways
dont bother with motor mounts
or the camber links


"They don't make no seatbelt for the mind. So I can't buckle up for this ride!"

CID498 #333619 Nov 23, 12:46pm
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-Apexi PFC

won't work with 03+

Johnsgt #333620 Nov 23, 12:48pm
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Originally Posted by Johnsgt
Not to be mean but you contradict yourself. You say you dont want to turbo, because it will place you in a different class, but the s/c is an option. A s/c will put you in a different class just like turbo, its still f/i.

Well SC is an option still, and not something I would want to do. Unless I feel no difference in gains, or I get bored later down the road, then I would go SC instead of Turbo. But for now, no Turbo, sorry for the misunderstanding

defyenz #333621 Nov 23, 12:48pm
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Originally Posted by defyenz
-Apexi PFC
won't work with 03+

Why not?

shox #333622 Nov 23, 1:03pm
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You wouldnt want Iridium youd want Copper.


"If your not the lead Dog the View never Changes"

shox #333623 Nov 23, 1:06pm
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Originally Posted by shox
Originally Posted by defyenz
-Apexi PFC
won't work with 03+

Why not?

something about it being changed to drive-by-wire

defyenz #333624 Nov 23, 1:47pm
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Yeah the powerfc wont work with your car since you have drive by wire. You will want to see if emanage will work. For sways get hotchkis. The spark plugs wont do anything unless you go fi or have had your stock plugs for a long period of time, say over 50000 miles? I understand why you are saying you dont want a turbo but I am not too sure about the trd sc being that it is not 'meant' for our car. I will obviously released all the info I know on it after the install but if you are worried about an intake, the trd sc has a chance to have a lot more problems (assuming it works). It all just depends on how far you want to take the performance. The suspension mods seem like the thing to start out with until we find out about the trd sc and if emanage will work. thumbsup


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SLVCELI #333625 Nov 23, 3:13pm
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Doesn't i make more sense to do all the susp. and power mods before the apperance so that the body does get all messed up when all the parts are going in???? Other then that i would say go with the Koni Yellows for the shocks... what about brakes?? They are also very important.. such as pads, and SS lines... I have the NGK Plugs didn't really notice a difference... I also have the TRD Rear Bar and RMM front... noticed more difference with the RMM then i did the TRD...

defyenz #333626 Nov 24, 2:33am
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Originally Posted by defyenz
Originally Posted by shox
Originally Posted by defyenz
-Apexi PFC
won't work with 03+
Why not?
something about it being changed to drive-by-wire

Drive by wire is not on the 03 GTs, so I'm guessing it'll still work?

As for the body work goes, I had a fucked up bumper before, so I thought I might as well change it, that's why I did that first. Also, I wanted a body kit bad. As for brake goes, I'm not too sure about what I want yet, any recommendations?

Also, to add to the list, pulleys and clutch will also be another addition.

shox #333627 Nov 24, 3:08am
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Jackson,

Depending on how long you're planning on waiting...I'll have the TRD rear strut brace and TRD sways on my car after the New Year. I can let you know how those work out for me. I'm still going with the TRD drop. I've heard nothing but good things about the TRD sways, I remember someone saying the Hotchkis ones were too stiff for the street, dunno.

Bitch up and get a CAI grin or a Short Ram. Chances are, unless you buy another one off eBay your engine will be just fine.

The ECelica store sells a pulley kit but I don't think it's going to make much of a difference. Check out the TRD clutch/flywheel as well.

Brakes, you've got a few options, swapping in some performance pads or there's the AEM kit, Stoptech/TRD or Rotora. I'm planning on getting a Rotora big brake kit, heard lots of good things about it and it's kind of in the middle of the field for pricing.

Stephen #333628 Nov 24, 12:30pm
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Well I'm sure the TRD sways are great, but I've heard nothing but good from the Hotchkis. They're stiff as fuck, like you said, which is what I want. The only rear strut brace that's potentially good is the TRD one so there's not a whole lot of decision there. You should swap your APR Front Strut for RMM, heard you notice a HUGE difference between the two.

As for the TRD clutch and flywheel go...I'm not sure, never heard of them. Anyone??

As for brakes go, there's not gonna be much of a difference because of the rear drums. I hate those things and am probably gonna swap them to disc...but I doubt it, LOL!

shox #333629 Nov 24, 1:52pm
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by the by...I'm all motor too...I even have the 11:1 internals...they only make a 10 hp gain at best...but are great for peace of mind if you are going to beat on your engine, and still want reliability...also...if you want some good gains, PORT the damn head of the 1zz...it will help

shox #333630 Nov 25, 1:19am
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Well, the price-point between the TRD and Hotchkis sways isn't much so I guess whatever brand you want to go with. I like the RMM front strut bar but I still think it's way too much $$$. With the APR or Tanabe Sustec brace and a set of front and rear sways I don't think you need anything crazy.

If you do a search, I believe Hypermotive has a rear-strut brace that can be removed without taking out all of your trunk plastics. If you're really looking to shed weight, you might want to ditch those anyways.

I can't be convinced that swapping the drums to discs on a GT is going to be worth it for the money (waaaay to expensive) Trust me...a big brake kit up front on a GT will make great difference. It's not just stopping distance you're looking to gain when upgrading your brakes...you seen to want to get some track time in so the real benefit is brakes that will slow/stop you consistently with little or NO fade. A set of upgraded front discs/calipers, etc will do this for you.

I've heard about a clutch/flywheel combo by Fidanza but TRD looks good too.

Quote
TRD Japan's lightweight flywheel lets you have factory-quality stability, while allowing you to rev faster and freer than you've ever been able to before! Flywheel is 10 pounds, down from the stock 16 pounds.
...$450.USD

Quote
TRD performance clutches increase torque capacity by approximately 30%, with moderate pedal force and smooth engagement. All clutches are brand new (not rebuilt). The TRD Japan clutch cover is recommended for use with this clutch disc.
...$130.USD

Quote
The TRD Japan clutch cover provides more gripping power than the stock clutch cover, yet retains a smooth engagement with minimal pedal effort. The TRD Japan clutch cover is brand new, not rebuilt, and does not require a core fee.
...$250USD

Stephen #333631 Nov 25, 1:25am
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Some things to consider...

TRD Sways - $335USD

Quote
Designed to reduce body roll and improve stability during cornering. Constructed of spring steel and finished in TRD's signature red, the bars also help to reduce understeer, facilitate neutral cornering and increase maneuverability.

Hotchkis Street Sway Bars - $259USD

Quote
Hotchkis Tuning Sport Sway bars improve your handling and reduce body roll. Turn in with confidence and late brake in the corners with our track tested lightweight hollow sway bars. Sway bar sets include front and rear bars, greasable bushings, and brackets. Front 1" (25.4 mm) Hollow 2 position adjustable +43%, +70%, Rear 1" (25.4 mm) Hollow +88%

Hotchkis Race Sway Bars - $259USD

Quote
Hotchkis Tuning Competition Sway bars take performance to the next level. Competition bars offer the same great benefits as our sport sway bars, but use a more aggressive rear bar set to take advantage of race tires, and to achieve slight over steer. Sway bar sets include front and rear bars, greasable bushings, and brackets. Front 1" (25.4 mm) Hollow +43%, +70% 2 Position Rear 1" (25.4 mm) Hollow +123%
Should Be Used For Competition Only!

Stephen #333632 Nov 25, 1:26am
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..Also. The TRD sways are NOT hollow.

Stephen #333633 Nov 25, 1:29am
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TRD Rear Strut Brace - $135USD

Quote
By stiffening strut towers, this brace reduces chassis flex during aggressive cornering. Handling and repsonse improve

RMM Front Strut Bar - $175 USD

Quote
The RMM Strut Brace is designed to triangulate the engine compartment and thereby improrve chassis rigidity. The result is a stiffer chassis that will be more responsive and provide better handling. Furthermore, lowering the vehicle and installing stiffer suspension will create more stress on the chassis, which the RMM brace helps to counteract.

AEM Big Brake Kit (GT) - $558USD

Quote
AEM's Big Rotor Brake Kit allows for use of the Original Equipment (O.E.) brake caliper, making it the most affordable big rotor system on the market. AEM's rotors have an average 20% larger surface area and can reduce a vehicle's stopping distance by up to 33%. These oversized rotors also increase brake torque for reduced pedal effort and have a greater thermal capacity that extends performance during continuous hard braking. Kits include caliper repositioning brackets, complete Premium Grade and aircraft-quality hardware

Stephen #333634 Nov 25, 1:33am
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TRD Big Brake Kit (GT) - $1849USD

Quote
For the 2000-current GT/GTS, and Matrix. TRD offers a big brake assembly, complete with two-piece slotted rotors, 4-piston aluminum calipers, stainless steel, braided brake lines and high-performance brake pads. The advanced Celica brake system decreases stopping distance and enhances vehicle stability during aggressive driving and repeated or panic stops

Rotora Brake System - $1255USD

Quote
Rotora Big Brake Kit Upgrades are made with the performance enthusiast in mind. Fully cast and CNC machined for the highest quality; the 4-Piston caliper brake kit system improves pedal feel by increasing clamping force while maintaining the stock master cylinder, ensuring stock brake balance. These kits combine performance with race-inspired aesthetics. All kits feature two-piece, heat-treated aluminum calipers with differential piston bore sizes engineered to each specific application. Rotora ceramic brake pads improve stopping while maintain low levels of heat, dust and squeal. Included stainless-steel lines prevent brake hose expansion and provide a stiffer, sure-footed pedal feel. Stainless-steel lines also meet D.O.T. compliance and meet the FMVSS-106 (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard). All kits are ABS compatible and calipers come factory pre-installed.

...anywhoo, some info to think about, lemme know if you gots more questions wave

Stephen #333635 Nov 25, 1:39am
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It sounds like you already ordered springs... but I would have went with Hotchkis springs, or full Hotchkis coilovers. idunno


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Originally Posted by RevMonster
It sounds like you already ordered springs... but I would have went with Hotchkis springs, or full Hotchkis coilovers. idunno

I'm looking for the best bang for your buck too, can't just be spending all my money on the best because I just don't got that much. They're good, no doubt about it, but a little too steep for me. Maybe in the near future, but in the future I'm looking at more JDM full coilover sets than Hotchkis.

Thanks Stephen, that's some damn good info! I'll definitely consider what you said about the big brakes. And as for shedding some weight, I'll probably just remove the beasts in my backseats and that'll shed like 100 pounds almost. And for the plastic goes, I'll probably remove them when I get on the track but when I'm off the track, they stay on grin

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[quote=SLVCELI]
Yeah the powerfc wont work with your car since you have drive by wire.



Not all have drive by wire just depends on when it was made for 2004 I have an 04 celica gt and it does not have drive by wire. they started using dbw near the middle of production thumbsup

Last edited by JSPITZ; Dec 8, 2004 7:25pm.

JSPITZ #333638 Dec 8, 7:34pm
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ok, honestly, i have a GTS not a GT, but if i had a GT, i would turbo it. For the amount of money you will spend buying a PFC (which won't work), Invidia exhaust, porting both intake and exhaust manifolds along with new injectors and CAI, you could cover 3/4 or the cost of a turbo kit. unless your planning on serious autocross, just get some springs and shocks based on how low ya wanna go, ditch the front strut bar, and rear strut bar. I mean seriuosly half of the mods you listed there are not worth the money involved. But hey, i just like to go fast...


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Stephen #333639 Dec 10, 10:47am
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[quote]
The TRD Sways are 160 plus shipping so around 180 shipped a little fyi.


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