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#266859 Sep 5, 12:05am
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Hello,

I am waiting for my Front Strut Bar to arrive, but I have one question, on the install guide here, it says that it is recommened that we replace the stock bolts with an aftermarket one. Where can I purchase these aftermarket bolts to hold down the Strut Bar?

Alex


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what kind of front strut bar did you get? ? now i'm wondering the same about the bolts


LNK
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I ordered a Tanabe bar, and i don't nothing about taking the factory bolts and install another ones.

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You don't need to replace the bolts. They are part of the strut assembly, and will work fine.


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Check the install section here, it says that it is best, and also, I have heard a lot of people breaking some parts of their car after installing a Strut Bar. I just wanted to spend $10 bucks now instead of a few hundred bucks later because of something I could of prevent for cheap now.


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Kim
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whoa, thats very strange because i'd had my RMM bar for 1 year now and it's still fine. no probs. use the stock bolts everything should be great.


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dikitzaps
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my tanabe came with aftermarket nuts...

people break stuff because they over torque the nuts... then the bolt thats connected to the strut breaks and you need to replace your struts...

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Originally Posted by Chelica815
Check the install section here, it says that it is best, and also, I have heard a lot of people breaking some parts of their car after installing a Strut Bar. I just wanted to spend $10 bucks now instead of a few hundred bucks later because of something I could of prevent for cheap now.
Please post a link of this, because I can't find it.


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i have two strut bars now..

RMM and APR... not sure what would be better to use

RMM would probably be better i assume since its a one piece design as compared to the APR being a 3 piece confused
then again the welds of the rmm could still cause flex tongue

where's the install guide that you saw
Alex? i read through Isaac's APR install guide but no mention of new nuts there confused


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Originally Posted by Erick
i have two strut bars now..

RMM and APR...

RMM would probably be better i assume since its a one piece design as compared to the APR being a 3 piece confused
then again the welds of the rmm could still cause flex tongue

where's the install guide that you saw
Alex? i read through Isaac's APR install guide but no mention of new nuts there confused
I didn't see it either, I wonder if he was refering to a stabalizer bar link, or an anti roll bar.

As for the APR bar, I heard that they make loud popping noises when the car makes sharp turns? confused


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Here is the link:
https://celicahobby.com/ubbthreads/thread.f0_57360_0_collapsed_5__1.html#57360

Check out the Note comment on top. And I was reading a few threads, and some folks are complaning about the struts being broken and whatnot.

But anyways, how hard are you suppose to tighten these things anyways"?


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Originally Posted by Chelica815
Here is the link:
https://celicahobby.com/ubbthreads/thread.f0_57360_0_collapsed_5__1.html#57360

Check out the Note comment on top. And I was reading a few threads, and some folks are complaning about the struts being broken and whatnot.

But anyways, how hard are you suppose to tighten these things anyways"?

It says struts are suppose to prevent under steering. What is under steering? Im not really sure what the struts is for.

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Understeer is something that FWD cars suffer from often due to the fact that when they take turns at high rates of speed, the front tires will start to lose traction, and since that's where the power comes to the wheels, the car will not turn as well.

A strut bar connects to both struts, making them more rigid under heavy turning, assuring that when one of the front wheels begins to lose traction, the bar transfers rigidity to the other strut, thereby hepling at least one wheel make more solid contact to the pavement.


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Taken from the install guide...

*Note. It is higly recommended that you purchase new bolts to replace the stock bolts. The stock ones don't start to thread until the top, so buy some bolts that thread the whole way through.


That doesn't really make sense. Saying that the stock bolts don't start to thread until the top, and then saying to buy bolts that thread the whole way through?

I think it just means that since the strut bar plate sits on top of the strut, it means that you will have less bolt to screw the nut onto, and that you may not be able to screw the nut down if there isn't enough threading sticking up.


You should be fine. I havn't heard of this before, and if you don't have the right bolts on there, you will know when you go to screw the nut on. It doesn't mean that the stock bolts aren't strong enough.


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See how little of the bolt is left sticking up from the plate?

The reason it says that you might need new bolts is due to the fact that you may not have enough threading sticking up for the nuts to tighten on to.

I think this depends on what strut bar you buy, and how thick the plate is.
1870213096-rmmstrutbar1.jpg


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Originally Posted by amtemp
Originally Posted by Chelica815
Here is the link:
https://celicahobby.com/ubbthreads/thread.f0_57360_0_collapsed_5__1.html#57360

Check out the Note comment on top. And I was reading a few threads, and some folks are complaning about the struts being broken and whatnot.

But anyways, how hard are you suppose to tighten these things anyways"?

It says struts are suppose to prevent under steering. What is under steering? Im not really sure what the struts is for.
Oh, and struts are also known as shocks, and the strut assembly contains your springs, shocks, etc.


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Originally Posted by slidr
Understeer is something that FWD cars suffer from often due to the fact that when they take turns at high rates of speed, the front tires will start to lose traction, and since that's where the power comes to the wheels, the car will not turn as well.

A strut bar connects to both struts, making them more rigid under heavy turning, assuring that when one of the front wheels begins to lose traction, the bar transfers rigidity to the other strut, thereby hepling at least one wheel make more solid contact to the pavement.

I understand. Awesome explanation. thumbsup

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I actually stripped my stock ones initially after the Hypermotive front strut bar install... Toyota replaced them with new ones and fixed the stripped threads - grin

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first of all, you do not need to replace the bolts, the stock are fine
second of all, the problems you hear of breaking and stripping is because people are stupid and torque the nuts to tight, thus, causing problems.
torque them to the right specs and you won't have a problem.


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How can i torque them at the right specs?? how do i know?

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Originally Posted by Miketrd
How can i torque them at the right specs?? how do i know?


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Just do it by hand, and stop when it's tight.


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^^^yup yup..

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Originally Posted by spaztikid
my tanabe came with aftermarket nuts...

people break stuff because they over torque the nuts... then the bolt thats connected to the strut breaks and you need to replace your struts...
Most of my suspension stuff came with new nuts. Those get used, abused, and stripped over time. You don't need new bolts. You only need new bolts if maybe you break one or stretch it after loosening it and over tightening it a couple of times or if a new longer bolt is required. How do you know how much to tighten it? The Toyota specs are on this site. I'm one to go to the specs on everything and a torque wrench is the best friend you can find other than an impact wrench/gun.

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