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#239510 Aug 3, 5:27pm
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2000 Toyota Celica GT
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what would be the best aust X mods to make for a celica gt?

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Caleb
2000 Toyota Celica
Caleb
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strut bar, rear tower bar...anything that can strengthen your chassis thumbsup

lowering your center of gravity by using lowering springs (or the like) is also good...which usually means replacing your shocks as well...suspension mods.

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new sways are also a must, new brakes won't hurt ya at all either. there is a good deal on hotchkiss components in the GB section you should check out thumbsup

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tires and brass balls

ikin #239514 Aug 3, 10:18pm
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Jae
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ok here are the lists.
by the way gts and gt suspension parts are same.

-strut brace(hotchkis, tanabe, brashboy, apr, etc)
-sway bars(hotchkis, eibach, trd, etc)
-rear strut brace(trd, c-one, etc)
-tires(falken azenis, yokohoma spec 2 parada, etc)
-camber link(hotchkis)
-springs(hotchkis, trd, tanabe, eibach, etc)
-strut&shocks(kyb agx, tein, tokico, hotchkis, etc)
-lower tie bar(tanabe, dc sports, etc)
-camber bolts(eibach, dog fight pro, monroe, etc)
-big brake kit(endless, aem, rotora, etc)
-brake pads(trd, ednless, project M, etc)
-rotar(brembo, c-one, etc)
-engine damper(brashboy, tanabe, etc)

that's probably all the suspension parts you can get from your celica. like in the (..) these are companies that make kit for your car.
So far Hotchkis and Tein are has the best suspension kit for your celica. Hotchkis suspension has the record setting times in turns.
For autocrossing, i would definitly get sway bars, strut&shocks, rear strut brace, tires, and camber kit.
these are the most fundamental parts you need for autoXing.

if you have any question on autoXing let me know. or check scca.com or solo1.com
hope this help you a little

Last edited by Jae; Aug 3, 2004 10:19pm.

Jae #239515 Aug 3, 11:39pm
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Speed Omen
2002 Toyota Celica GT
Speed Omen
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that list that Jae put up is pretty comprehensive - my advice, if you have no mods at all, is to get a package like Hotchkis or the TRD Sportivo...

Sultan #239516 Aug 3, 11:48pm
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black & blue 4 you
2000 Toyota Celica GT
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what does the c-one rear strut bar look like and how much does it cost.

also where can i get a tanabe engine damper


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i've been changing but you'll never see me now
now i'm blaming you for everything

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Jae
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2001 Toyota Celica
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c-one rear strut braces looks nice. and all the points(bars) are screwed on, so if you have stuff to carry, you can all way unscrew just the bar. So you don't ahve to take off the whole thing-that's pain
check their website for some pictures.
http://www.hipporacing.com/Celica/Part/Tower_bar.html
and as for tanabe, don't get it, i heard that it messes up your motor mount(too much pressure to the motor mount)
Get brashboy if anything, since their bar comes with shock so that there isn't much pressure, by the way tanabe doesn't come with shock. its just a bar.lol

Last edited by Jae; Aug 4, 2004 12:17am.

Jae #239518 Aug 4, 9:37am
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ECelica Staff
2000 Toyota Celica GT
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You nailed most of it but You all forgot the most important thing of all and thats experience (seat time) without that the best car setup in the world is worthless.


Get better running stock then upgrade the car to suit your skills not the other way around.


"They don't make no seatbelt for the mind. So I can't buckle up for this ride!"

CID498 #239519 Aug 4, 12:56pm
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Ah. You're in a tricky situation. You'd be best off starting in stock and working on the car as you get better. However... according to your profile you have a carbon fiber hood. A lightweight hood is considered a big mod and should put you in SM (street modified). So you can try to have fun, just know that you won't be as competitive. However, there is this one guy in my region with an Impreza that has a Carbon Fiber hood and competes in STS. Since you're no doubt going to lower the car with the body kit and all, just start with that. Worry about other upgrades later on when you gain experience and can see what you'd be best off improving.

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2000 Toyota Celica
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you need most of all

SUSPENSION LIKE A MOFO
BRAKING LIKE MAHFUCKA
AND
LIMITED SLIP DIFF LIKE A MAHFUCKA TOO

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2000 Toyota Celica GT
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You don't need anything. Well, I'm wrong you need you're car. If you go overboard with mods you're just going to be another one of those guys in a heavily modified class with 5-10 grand in mods getting whooped by stock cars with good drivers. Keep that in mind. Lower your car for looks with that kit, get some good tires, then go have fun.

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^ yea thumbsup

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Too many mods will get you bumped up into a class that you have to chance of winning. Stay stock (or as close to stock as possible) so that you can stay in a class that you will be competetive in.

silver #239524 Aug 6, 1:30am
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Jae
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^^^as soon as you put your sway bar in your car, it makes you STS from DC(gts stock) or ES(gt stock). STS is just after DC.
STS = full suspension and minor engine mod.

so getting all that suspension kit won't raise your class.
to go beyond STS, you need to have some serious engine work done.

Jae #239525 Aug 6, 8:52am
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The GTS is in D-stock (DS), and the GT is in G-stock (GS). Generally, as modifications are made you'd probably start stock > STS (street touring) > DSP (D streep prepared) > SM (street modified). STS does allow most suspension mods. You are not allowed a 3 point rear strut bar in STS or DSP. Other than that, coilovers, sway bars, polyurethane bushings, everything on the market should be good. However, I've heard the TRD Sportivo kit comes with solid rear bushings, not allowed in STS or DSP, bushings are only unrestricted in SM. According to the rules, hoods can only be replaced in SM, however someone in my region had a Carbon Fiber hood in STS.

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^^ I've been running STS with a rear 3 pt strut bar for almost 2 years and Jae runs STS with a carbon fiber hood confused Must be a regional rule for You.


"They don't make no seatbelt for the mind. So I can't buckle up for this ride!"

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Originally Posted by Double_Ohh_GTS
you need most of all

SUSPENSION LIKE A MOFO
BRAKING LIKE MAHFUCKA
AND
LIMITED SLIP DIFF LIKE A MAHFUCKA TOO

Made me laugh for a long time. Hahaha.

Everything listed is great, but things like keeping your weight down low helps too. Mounting your batter in the back, down low, maybe where your spare tire sits, would help with weight, and keep it down low. Weight reduction is also key. A friend of mine with a 5th Gen GTS has gutted his car down to about 2000 pounds. He's a big AUTOX'er and all he has done are some KYB shocks and Intrax springs, and almost 0 body roll. First, I'd get to the point where it's the car holding you back, not you holding back the car.

Snafu #239528 Aug 7, 2:08am
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Originally Posted by Snafu
Originally Posted by Double_Ohh_GTS
you need most of all

SUSPENSION LIKE A MOFO
BRAKING LIKE MAHFUCKA
AND
LIMITED SLIP DIFF LIKE A MAHFUCKA TOO

Made me laugh for a long time. Hahaha.

Everything listed is great, but things like keeping your weight down low helps too. Mounting your batter in the back, down low, maybe where your spare tire sits, would help with weight, and keep it down low. Weight reduction is also key. A friend of mine with a 5th Gen GTS has gutted his car down to about 2000 pounds. He's a big AUTOX'er and all he has done are some KYB shocks and Intrax springs, and almost 0 body roll. First, I'd get to the point where it's the car holding you back, not you holding back the car.

damn i knew i forgot something major but i just couldn't put my mahfuckin finger on it rofl

CID498 #239529 Aug 7, 6:03pm
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14.1 AUTHORIZED MODIFICATIONS - STS
A. All Solo II Rules Stock Category allowances, plus all allowances
contained in 14.1 through 14.10.
B. Air conditioning systems may be removed in whole or in part. This
rule should not be interpreted to allow modification of the heater
system.
14.2. BODY WORK
A. Pedal kits and other interior cosmetic accessories may be added.
B. The driver and front passenger seats may be replaced, with the
following restrictions: The seating surface must be fully upholstered:
The top of the seat, or an attached headrest, may not be
below the center of the drivers head. The seat, not including
mounting hardware, must weigh at least 15 pounds.
C. Removal of factory trim (rub strips, emblems, mud flaps).
D. Alternate steering wheels are allowed except that steering wheels
with an integral airbag may not be changed.
E. Fenders may not be cut or flared but the inside lip may be rolled to
gain additional tire clearance. Flares that are part of body kits may
be attached to the stock fenders. The intention is to permit fitting
the maximum allowable tire size. No other changes to the stock
fenders or wheel wells are permitted. Wear marks on inside surfaces
of the fender well from tire rub are permitted. However,
wear holes or slots completely through a fender well surface
(which, in effect, provide additional tire clearance) are not permitted.
F. Addition of spoilers, body kits, rear wings, etc which do not require
removal of standard parts other than the substitution of rear
wings/spoilers and valances/bumper covers. The drilling of holes
for the purpose of mounting these pieces is permitted.

(...)

14.8, H. Strut bars are permitted with all types of suspension. Strut bars may be mounted only transversely across the car from upper right to upper left suspension mounting point and from lower right to lower left suspension mounting point. No other confiuration is permitted. Additional holes may be drilled for mounting bolts. Only bolt on attachment is permitted. (...)

There is no allowance for a carbon fiber hood. Only in SM does it say hoods can be replace. Honestly you'd probably only have problems if you went to a national event. If you were protested it would be pretty obvious to a tech that technically the car should be in a higher class. If you think about it thoses mods pratically don't give any advantage and nobody regionally cares. I'm just stating the fact that it is in the rulebook.

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