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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,007
isaac
ECelica Admin
isaac Jul 16, 5:59pm - #18548 
2001 Absolutely Red Toyota Celica GT
ECelica Admin
2001 Toyota Celica GT

Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,007
Los Angeles, CA
Brakes, AEM Big Brakes - Install



AEM Big Brake Install by Larry D

Please be sure to read the entire install guide before embarking on this adventure because you may find that you need something you do not have and your car will be in pieces wink

Tools needed
14, 17, 19 mm socket, 17 mm wrench, needle nose pliers or brake pad expanders, large allen key, torque wrench, and all parts that come with the rotors
Optional : 2 bolts (M8x1.25), WD-40, Hammer (the bigger the better)
Comparison Pictures
Front Stock vs Front AEM Rear Stock vs Rear AEM
Linked Image Linked Image
Front
Here is a picture of the stock front rotor

(Figure 1)
Linked Image
1)

Jack up front of vehicle, support the vehicle using properly rated jack stands.
(note.. I used the stock jack and it worked fine, but I only jacked up one side of the car at a time)
a) Position wheel chocks on each side of rear wheels
b) Remove front wheels of vehicle

2) Remove the braking system, procedure is identical between both sides
a) Remove caliper by loosening the 2 17mm bolts on the rear of the rotor (probably need to use the wrench here cause of limited space)(see figure2)

(Figure 2)
Linked Image

b) Use zip tie to support the caliper so that no weight is on the brake line

3)

Remove rotor, it may appear stuck pull HARD or use hammer
** If appears stuck (Look at the rotors (front and rear). Each has 2 little holes on opposite side. You screw little bolts (M8x1.25) into these holes (1/4 turn at a time, alternating). The bolts will put an incredible amount of pressure agains the hub and the rotor will pop right off.)

** I used WD40 to loosen up the rotor before using the hammer to pop it off, but Ive been told that you shouldnt use WD40 because it can be corrosive to the brake pads.. So if you do use WD40 then be sure to wash everything down with brake parts cleaner (it comes in another convienient spray can).

4)

Check hubs for rust, if rusted remove with metal wire brush. Also make sure the stock hydraulic lines are not damaged.
Here is a Picture of the Front Hub with No Caliper Or Rotor

(Figure 3)
Linked Image

5)

Use the allen key bolts to mount the caliper relocation bracket. Torque down to 50 ft-lbs

(Figure 4)
Linked Image

6)

Mount the AEM rotor using 2 or 3 lug nuts to make sure the rotor is on flush. (make sure the rotor is clean so you dont ruin the brake pad)

** I had to bend back the splash gaurd so it was not in the way

7)

Expand the brake pads. You need to compress the piston on the caliper so that it while fit back on the rotor. Use either a bake pad expander, needle nose pliers or your hands (I used my hands so that the brake pads would not get damaged)

8)

Use the 19 mm bolts to remount the caliper torque down to 50 ft- lbs

9)

Spin the rotor to make sure it doesnt hit anything

10)

Remove wheel lug nuts and then Remount tire

Final Pictures Of Front Setup

(Figure 5)
Linked Image

(Figure 6)
Linked Image

Rear

Here is a picture of the stock rear rotor before anything has been done to it|

(Figure 7)
Linked Image

11)

Jack up rear of vehicle, support the vehicle using properly rated jack stands. (note.. I used the stock jack and it worked fine, but I only jacked up one side of the car at a time)
a) Position wheel chocks on each side of front wheels
b) Remove rear wheels of vehicle

12)

Remove the braking system, procedure is identical between both sides
a) Remove caliper by loosening the 2 14mm bolts on the rear of the rotor (refer to figure 2)
b) Zip tie the caliper up as done on the front

13)

Remove Rotor, use same procedure as front removal (note.. make sure the parking brake is disengaged and your car is in gear)

14)

Check rear hub for rust, if rusted remove with metal wire brush. Also make sure the stock hydraulic lines are not damaged.

15)

Use the Hex Head bolts and lock washers provided to mount the caliper relocation bracket torque down to 30 ft-lbs

(Figure 8)
Linked Image

16)

Mount the AEM rotor as done on the front

** I had to bend back the splash gaurd so it was not in the way

17)

Expand the break pads

18)

Use the stock bolts to mount the caliper

19)

Spin the rotor to make sure it doesnt hit anything

20)

Remove wheel lug nuts and then Remount tire

Final Picture Of The Rear Setup

(Figure 9)
Linked Image

(Figure 10)
Linked Image

After the new rotors have been put on the brakes must be ˜broken in. So be carefully when first driving around| It is a MUST that you pump your brakes while the car is sitting still several times until the pedal feels firm again, otherwise you will make the same mistake as I did and realize quickly you have no brakes wink

Note From AEM: Please note that you must replace your brake pads to ensure your warranty as old pads can wear unevenly and, subsequently, cause your rotor to wear unevenly/prematurely

Procedures Direct From AEM

In order to maximize the benfits that this brake upgrade kit offers the driver, it is essential that the rotors and or brake pads are bedded-in correctly. The following procedure should be followed

1)

On an empty street or open parking lot accelerate the vehicle to 40mph

2)

Apply brake using moderate pedal effort reducing speed to 3mph, (DO NOT STOP if at all possible)

3)

Repeat steps 1 and 2 between 8-10 times allowing 1/4 - miles between brake applications

The bedding-in in procedure is now complete and the vehicle can be driven in a normal manner. Adherence to this necessary procedure will optimize the performance of the braking system

And lastly a picture of all the AEM rotors on my car

(Figure 11)
Linked Image

For more information on the brakes, check out BuyBrakes.com
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1
snst22
New Member
snst22 Jul 1, 4:48pm - #450669 
New Member

Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1
UK
The bolts that are removed with a 14mm socket (holding the caliper in place), one of mine is missing on the front left and must have fallen out very recently as I have just become aware of a terrible knocking noice; inspection showed it was the caliper rattling around... what type of bolt is required to replace it?
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