Dang, I should have taken photos of what a do-it-yourself paint job (using paint found in the automitive section of the local pepboys/autozone/homedepot) looks like after one month of driving around.
Now discontinued, the Revmotion front lip was my favorite front! ...I could spend a few hours on prime/paint/install of this for less than $10 worth of materials and the front lip itself didnt cost all that much... I would drive around and not worry about running over a curb or into a curb (I've ruined a few Revmotion by doing this)
Anyways - after 2 months and about 4,000+ of miles put on my car, the front lip was all full of rock-chips... it looked like the solar system with all the white spots all over it! (I spent about 30 minutes with a can of black top coat touch up paint tonight, and it looks like brand new again)... but only after 4,000 miles?????
I'd suggest that whatever you have done, get it done professionally - with the correct paints and not the cheap store-bought generic stuffs... you will be much more happier in the long run
The Revmotion front lip (discontinued February 2003) Some shois charge outrageous prices because they really just dont want to do the job this is why we recommend that you get a quote from 3 different locations.
Several bodyshops are not familiar with aftermarket fiberglass parts because they usually work on cars that have been in collisions rather then show/modified import cars. The difference between aftermarket body kit pieces and OEM (Original Equipment parts) is that OEM parts from directly from the dealership already painted and fitment is perfect because they are made from high quality poly urethane rather then fiberglass. When you get fiberglass aftermarket from ANYPLACE, prep work is always required| weather your getting fiberglass from Kaminari, Veilside or Bomex or wherever.
The bodyshops that work on mostly collision repair jobs have little to no experience with aftermarket speed parts, thus have no idea what the standard procedure is for prep-work before painting aftermarket fiberglass pieces.
BTW, The correct way to finish fiberglass before it is painted would be to spatchula putty over all of the rough edges and pin-holes (5 minutes). Next, use fine sand paper to sand down the finish to make the area even and free of all bumps (10 minutes). Then you will be left with a perfect product that needs a final wet-sanding (10 minutes) to smooth out the entire visible area of your product before shooting with primer and paint and clear cover coat. [ 05-07-2003, 10:33 PM: Message edited by: isaac ]