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Install guide for Led Underbody neon. For those who want to do this install by this guide me and Caleb take no responsibility for anything that should happen to you, your car or your neon kit, in other words DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!, or get it installed by a professional. Should take around 3-5 hours to complete depending on your wiring capabilities. A few things you need to get before attempting this install are:
Inline fuse holder
Fuse (10 amp)
Red power wire 18 gauge
Black power wire 18 gauge
Various connectors ( such as connectors to connect power to power and ground to ground)
1 LED underbody kit
wire cutters
wire strippers
zip ties
and a friend
the kit we used is made by OPTX and is a single color LED underbody kit.
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1.) First thing to do is to test to make sure your UB neon works before installing them.
To do this run a power wire from the positive battery terminal and connect the other end to the inline fuse holder. Keep the fuse holder within 6 inches of the battery. Make sure when you are testing the neon to install the inline fuse holder first or else you will run the risk of frying your neon before it is even on the car. Now run a wire from the negative battery terminal. Make sure you use the negative battery terminal for a ground point, the UB neon needs a strong ground to function, simply loosening a screw on the chassis and refastening it with the wire wont provide a sufficient ground for the neon.
Now connect the other wire on the inline fuse holder to the power wire on the control module (solid yellow wire). Also be sure to connect the ignition wire (red wire) to the power wire as well, the neon will not stay on if the ignition wire is not given power. Now connect the ground wire to the wire from the battery to the ground wire coming from the module (yellow with black stripe). You do not need to connect the blue wire at this time, it is only and alarm wire to connect your alarm to your UB neon. Now insert the fuse into the fuse holder. Now press and hold the on/off switch and they should come on. If not check your connections and try again. No permanent connections at this time, just temporary so you can ensure the tubes work and then disconnect everything. Remember to take the fuse back out of the fuse holder.
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pic 2
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2.) now that you know that your neon works, its time to start the install. Now you want to jack up the car. Jack up the front end first and place jack stands under the car, then place the scissor jacks on the rear of the car and jack the rear up. It is very dangerous to use these scissor jacks to hold up the car in the air so don’t leave them on for long periods of time and be very careful when around the car. First thing you want to do is place the tubes around the car the way they will be mounted. Check your manual that came with the tubes for info on the specific mounting positions, PLEASE LOOK IT DOES MATTER!
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3.) Once you have found the spots under the car that you are going to mount the tubes, it is time to start mounting them. First thing to do is find the place that you want them to be mounted by holding them up under the car, it would be a good idea to use a friend at this time. Have your friend hold the tubes up under the car and mark where the screws will go into the car. The best places to mount the tubes are to mount them closer to the center of the car, this will disperse the glow better. Now that you have marked the places where you are going to screw in the screws, drill the screws in first. Don’t try to hold the tubes up while drilling, first off it makes it very difficult and you can run the risk of damaging the tubes. After the screw has gone into the car take it out and secure the tubes under the car. It is better to start off with the front tube, because It is the hardest to install. I recommend poking a hole in the underbody plastics first and then drilling the screws in. you should also secure the front tube with strong zip ties to ensure it wont fall off. These screws wont hold plastic as good as they do metal so it is good to use zipties to help keep the tube from falling.
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4.) Once you have all your tubes mounted it is time to start running the wires to the inside. It is very important for you to LABEL THE WIRES, you will need this later. There are four grommets located under the car that will be key to use for the front and side tubes. There are also two grommets in the rear of that car inside the spare tire well. Trust me its not the gas tank. For the front tube it is easiest to pull back the wheel well plastics and run the cords inside the fender. To peel back the wheel well plastics you are going to need a flat head screw driver. Put the head of the flat head under the tabs holding the plastics on as seen below, and pop them up. Now run the wires up and around the fender. The wires will come out under the side skirt, if you have a stock side skirt look for an opening through the wheel well plastics to push it through. As for the side and rear tubes they will be easy. Simply pull the entire grommet out from under the car and cut a hole in them. Now run the wires through the grommet and place them back under the car. For the rear grommets, don’t pull those out, simply poke a hole through them and pull the wires through. Now for those of you with bodykits especially the veilside kit like me, the rear grommet might be covered up. To run the wires in this situation your are going to need to route them up over the exhaust and over the rear suspension, try to follow the exhaust but keep away from it at the same time. After you are done routing all the wires, zip tie all wires up close to the tubes and make sure there is no slack in the wires under the car. Now lower the car back down off the jacks and jack stands.
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qwe
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wwe
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other side of firewall
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carpet pulled up
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wiring
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cleaning up wires behind dash
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wiring under hood
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control module mounted
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power and ground wire coming through firewall grommet
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better pic of firewall grommet inside car
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ohh one more thing, the screw driver in the pics is actually poking through the firewall grommet, just to let you know
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Jeff (Celimangts17) has some in his profile....but we gotta take some pics of Caleb's car with em on
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if i had a digital cam i would post pics right now..just to let you guys know though--they came out GREAT. i really couldn't be happier with the 100 bucks i spent. i'm going to have to go back to jeff's house some night soon so i can show you guys pics
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Thanks for a good info
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yeah, the name of the kit is OptX (by streetglow) they are regularly priced for $150 but as already mentioned by my gf they sale ended today i beleive.
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I know this is an old thread, but just incase anyone is looking, i bought mine for $50 shipped from e-bay, the kit is made by liteglow, but has thier name removed. The kit comes with insurance, and when something is wrong when recieved(bad tube or flickering led's), they send out a new kit for free without even asking for the old one to be returned. I had a problem, and that's how it was handeled.
LED underbody lighting kit
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